Thoughts on my rig? - Page 2

**lrazer** · 07-15-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluecrew

ehhh. I picked this truck for the lack of computers and any and all electronic crap competely. Simplicity is king in my book. Thanks for the tip, but it doesn't seem to be my style. I don't care about the fuel economy, it's a mud rig that I plan to turn into a trailer queen. As far as the drivability, I think the tires I plan to run will kill any advantages.

For the record, I plan to get a trailer, reduce my lift size, remove fenders (if cutting isn't enough!) and welding the diffs. I plan to make this thing anything but road ready. I've had my fill of driving down backroads skirting past cops, only beating on the truck a little because it has to drive home under it's own power at the end of the night. I want to go balls to the walls! GO BIG OR GO HOME!

But hey, thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it.

no prob i just saw that u drove it, didnt trailer, so seemed logical
once i swapped the 5.3 in mine i wished i could still daily drive it... the gen III and IV motors are nice

xpndbl3 · 07-15-2010

todd, i told you that you would love those motors

And to blue crew, in a month or so I'll be pulling my running 350 tbi setup, computer, harness and everything to swap a 5.3L that's been sitting in my garage forever. If you're interested in this motor in my truck presently let me know and we can work something out.

Bluecrew · 07-16-2010

Thanks! but I'm going to respectfully decline your offer. I love my carb, hate computer crap, and have no money for a engine swap right now. I have to get my wife's rig up and running first. I've been stealing parts off her rig all summer to keep mine wheeling while I left her at home. Yeah, she's really patient with me! So, my truck doesn't matter until her's is running, driving and wheeling.

Again, thanks for the offer! I'll keep it in mind down the road.

may pop · 07-23-2010

I believe all you did was fry the valve guide seals. Over heating that old engine finished off the seals that had become old and brittle over the years. This is a job that can be done over a weekend with less than 100 bucks in tools.
Ron

Bluecrew · 07-23-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by may pop

I believe all you did was fry the valve guide seals. Over heating that old engine finished off the seals that had become old and brittle over the years. This is a job that can be done over a weekend with less than 100 bucks in tools.
Ron

PLEASE tell me more? I'm thinking dropping another engine in there was my only (cost efficient) route. I'm all ears, man!

From what I've been hearing, you're right. My seals had become old and brittle as the engine would somewhat "lope" when cold (even in summer) once she warmed up (and the seals heated up) it ran smoother. I just contributed the "lope" to the lack of preheater tube, and ill-adjusted carb. Turns out I was "not completely correct"...

may pop · 07-25-2010

First remember this is an old engine. The old useage may be from valve guide seals. First do a compression check. All cylinders around the same 20%. If they are the guide seals are replaced by removing valve covers,rocker arms,putting that cylinder at top dead center so the valve wont fall back into the engine, useing a valve spring compressor compress spring and remove. The Chevy seal looks like a squared off donut. replace seal and put back together. This will take about 2-4 hours per side.
Ron

07-15-2010	#12
xpndbl3 bolt on mall crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: orland park, il Posts: 166	todd, i told you that you would love those motors And to blue crew, in a month or so I'll be pulling my running 350 tbi setup, computer, harness and everything to swap a 5.3L that's been sitting in my garage forever. If you're interested in this motor in my truck presently let me know and we can work something out. __________________ 88 burban on 4.10 geared 1 tons, sky crossover steering, diy4x shackle flip, 350tbi soon to be 5.3L, th400, np208, sitting on 315/75R16s

07-16-2010	#13
Bluecrew Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Jefferson Age: 29 Posts: 10	Thanks! but I'm going to respectfully decline your offer. I love my carb, hate computer crap, and have no money for a engine swap right now. I have to get my wife's rig up and running first. I've been stealing parts off her rig all summer to keep mine wheeling while I left her at home. Yeah, she's really patient with me! So, my truck doesn't matter until her's is running, driving and wheeling. Again, thanks for the offer! I'll keep it in mind down the road. __________________ My truck: 1978 K20 sb350, 465, 205, D60, 14FF, 8" springs, 38.5" TSL's, and a big shitass grin. Her truck: 1985 K20 bb454, TH400, 203, Big Hub 44, 14FF, 6" springs, 33" Trxus MT's.

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07-23-2010	#14
may pop Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lake in the hills Il. Posts: 3	I believe all you did was fry the valve guide seals. Over heating that old engine finished off the seals that had become old and brittle over the years. This is a job that can be done over a weekend with less than 100 bucks in tools. Ron

07-25-2010	#16
may pop Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lake in the hills Il. Posts: 3	First remember this is an old engine. The old useage may be from valve guide seals. First do a compression check. All cylinders around the same 20%. If they are the guide seals are replaced by removing valve covers,rocker arms,putting that cylinder at top dead center so the valve wont fall back into the engine, useing a valve spring compressor compress spring and remove. The Chevy seal looks like a squared off donut. replace seal and put back together. This will take about 2-4 hours per side. Ron